Anyway, that said, our lunch had some memorable highlights and we were happy to relish this level of Mayfair luxury and slick service on a grim late winter day.
The highlight for me, as I just love eggs was my rather inspired starter: Jerusalem artichoke with egg yolk, roasted veal sweetbread, hedgehog mushrooms and Parmigiano Reggiano foam. The egg yolk worked beautifully as an additional sauce. Chablis 2011 from Tremblay, poised and fresh, was an easy-going and versatile partner. As it's almost Easter, here are some pictures of this eggy corner of heaven...
We also loved the little platters of Bayonne ham served with bread soon after we sat down, which helped make up for the rather small main courses, as did the generous selection of chocolates and goody bags at the end of the meal. Other nice touches were the the Champagne rhubarb and radish pickle served with the starter of chicken rillettes with foie gras, and the cheese course – three cheeses served with individually matched relishes. My petite main course of braised Aberdeen Angus beef cheek in Madiran included kumquat for a tropically tangy lift and was lovely with some Abstemes S'Abstemir 2008 (Maisonneuve-Cosse) – a gutsy Gamay from France's Cahors region (produced naturally I believe).
There's some tough competition out there at this level, but, despite Ms Darroze having been retained in Paris by the snowy conditions, the kitchen performed well in her absence. (The mains were a bit mean though.)