Among the goodies we brought home from our holiday in France last year was a tin of foie de morue fumé. This delicacy may not be for everyone – it is smoked cod's liver and often described as foie gras of the sea or poor man's foie gras. However, it is really worth seeking out in its own right: it has a rich, complex, slightly fishy flavour and a luxuriously creamy texture. Spread on some crackers for instant, distinctive canapés. We enjoyed it with some chilled Fino sherry, but other well structured, refreshing whites would be just as appetising, as long as they aren't too aromatic or oaky (Chablis, Savennières, Pinot Blanc, Graves, Albariño would be delicious). We'll certainly be replenishing stocks this summer, along with confit de canard and other favourites.