Veuve Clicquot demi-sec and lemon madeleines

I'm rather partial to drinking Champagne with food and just before Easter Veuve Clicquot sent me a bottle of their demi-sec to taste with some lemon madeleines. I have concerns about sparkling wine and desserts. It's quite traditional in France to serve smart fizz with dessert and, sadly, desserts are generally far too sweet to do it any justice and leaving it tasting dry and sharp in comparison. However, the combination looks pretty and has uplifting sense of occasion, so I can understand the appeal.

That said, when I tried the Veuve demi-sec with the madeleines, I was genuinely surprised. Demi-sec Champagne can taste a bit two-faced or confused, with the sweetness seeming confected and awkward alongside crisp acidity. This was not the case with the Veuve demi-sec whose honeyed sweetness was harmoniously integrated – unexpectedly good with the madeleines as they were not that sweet. We also enjoyed the demi-sec with a spicy main course – prawn biryani with yoghurt and mango chutney. This worked brilliantly (although perhaps not quite what Veuve Clicquot had in mind).

Stockists include Laithwaites (£40), Tanners (£39) and Majestic (£45 or a more realistic £29.98 if you buy two bottles).

Piper heralds Christmas

Last week I got my first proper taste of Christmas when I emerged from Sloane Square tube station and gazed at all the glamorous Christmas decorations. The trees in Sloane Square sport large tasteful twinkly stars and Peter Jones in the background is draped with lights. My short walk up Sloane Street was just as festive as I headed to Le Cercle restaurant as a guest of Piper-Heidsieck Champagne.

Piper has had quite a playful, partying image, however, cellar master Régis Camus recently received the International Wine Challenge Sparkling Winemaker of the Year trophy for the eighth consecutive time. New owners EPI, who bought the house from Rémy Cointreau in 2011, seem keen to place more emphasis on the quality of the wine itself – we were served several with dinner and they stood up beautifully (much better than the simple party pop you might have expected in the past). The wines are Pinot dominant and a generous proportion of reserve wine is included in the blends resulting in richer, complex tasting fizz closer in style to stable mate Charles Heidsieck (also run by Régis Camus).

The wines all showed well, but the highlight of the evening was Piper-Heidsieck's prestige cuvée Rare from the 2002 vintage. This was served with foie gras crème brûlée, lemon brioche and cardamom crust: all very luxurious. Finely structured with layers of complexity and, although drinking well now, it will age magnificently for several more years. (It's currently in this rather blingtastic bottle, although the new owners might tweak the packaging in future.)

The main course, roasted monkfish, glazed celery and lovage, was served with the soon to be released vintage 2006: although it was overshadowed by the Rare 2002, it was rich and muscular and a good pairing with the fish. The cheese course, chic carnation like rosettes of Ossau Iraty with mandarin (and a 'smoked Lillet' foam), worked very well with Cuvée Sublime (demi sec).

The dinner ended with the classic French pairing of pink fizz and dessert (in this case white chocolate parfait with frosted strawberries). For me, this never works as the wine isn't sweet enough, but I was really taken by the deeply coloured, bold vinous style of the Piper's Rosé Sauvage. I could imagine it with charcuterie, steak tartare or at a smart picnic. Distinctive stuff.

Piper-Heidsieck have other events planned for the Christmas season including tastings with cheese and charcuterie at Searcy's Champagne Bar at One New Change at 6.30pm on Tuesday 10th and Monday 16th December (£39). For more information mail: events@searcyschampagnebars.co.uk. Searcy's Champagne Bars will also be serving a broad range of Piper-Heidsieck by the glass.

I attended as a guest of Piper-Heidsieck and First Drinks. For information about future wine dinners at Le Cercle check their website. This tasting dinner cost £49 per head.

Piper-Heidsieck retail stockists
Brut NV Waitrose £31.99
Rare, Vintage 2002 Harrods £175
Vintage 2000 Harrods £64.95
Cuvée Sublime TheDrinksShop.com £38.69
Rosé Sauvage Waitrose £24.99

Krug lunch at Murano: the taste of luxury

I've always enjoyed Krug most with food. I recall my first ever mouthful and being struck by its rich, savoury, multifaceted character. It makes demands on you – and I like that in a wine. And, yes, this is most definitely wine, rather than mere fizz, and a wine that demands your attention. The non-vintage Grande Cuvée blend includes several dozen wines from 10 different vintages, some of which might be as mature as 15 years old. After the second fermentation, the wine is aged for six years in bottle 'sur pointes' (upended), so, in total, the Grande Cuvée takes about a decade to make. The vintage wines are also magnificent, but need plenty of time to age. (At home we have a bottle of the 1990 vintage received as a wedding present seven years ago.) Krug's use of wines that have been aged in small oak barrels characterises the house style – something which can polarise consumers, but gives the Champagne more structure, an additional level of flavour and boosts its affinity with food.

Last week I had the great fortune to be invited to lunch at Murano restaurant where Angela Hartnett and her head sommelier Marc-Andréa Lévy have devised a menu to accompany Krug Champagne. We began with amuse bouches and the Grande Cuvée: Parmesan tuiles, Puglian olives, vegetable crisps, gougères, arancini with truffle cream, San Daniele ham, salami and a generous bread basket. This selection alone would have been ideal for lunch! The umami-rich ham worked brilliantly with the tangy, savoury, yet refreshing Grand Cuvée, but what really stood out was the the arancini and truffle cream – sheer bliss and an inspired partner for the wine.

Our first course was scallop with sea bream ceviche with vegetable tempura and horseradish cream served in a separate little bowl. The tempura included an orange segment that was a revelation with the wine – the combination of fresh citrus and crisp batter was perfect. The slightly zesty ceviche, creamy textured and well seasoned with crunchy salt sat neatly alongside the Grande Cuvée.

Next came ravioli of king prawn, shellfish vinaigrette and fennel purée with Krug 2000: opulent, toasty and notably savoury. Whereas the first course was quite clean and pure, this second course rose decadently to the occasion. The fennel was served in raw shavings as well as the purée – an aromatic counter-balance to the sweet richness of the king prawn. It was interesting how the dish had an enlivening effect on the wine, making it taste more youthful and bright.

Our main course of roasted English rose veal, orange chicory, cooking juices and spiced bread was served with Krug 1998 which was a deep golden colour, vinous, savoury, long and complex. The nose in particular hinted at exotic wintery spice. The combination was really special: the orange infused chicory and toasted breadcrumbs chimed perfectly with the wine and Krug just loves juicy red meat.

The cheese course was simply served chunks of Parmesan which, like the proscuitto, being so tasty and rich in umami makes a great partner to complex Champagne. Although it was good with the 1998, it was better still with the fresher tasting Grande Cuvée – this would make a totally luxurious little snack!

Unusually, dessert also turned out to be excellent with the wine. The French have a tendency of serving dry Champagnes with desserts and it generally doesn't work. However, Angela Hartnett's ginger pain perdu, Earl Grey jelly and ginger ice cream was a revelation with these wines (helped by not being too sweet). The rich exotic flavours of ginger and the pain perdu's crunchy caramelised crust worked especially well with the Krug 1998, highlighted by the aromatic bergamot note. Inspired stuff.

Finally, coffee was served with these chic and absolutely delicious salted pistachio chocolates. A lovely detail to conclude a quite remarkable meal.

Murano is offering this menu at £250 per head and more seasonal menus for Krug will follow. The restaurant is also hosting a winemaker dinner with Oliver Krug on November 28th at £175 per head.

Krug is also offering a 'unique dining experience' at a pop up described as the Krug Institute of Happiness from 5th to 8th December at 28 Swain's Lane, overlooking Highgate Cemetery. Nuno Mendes of Viajante is creating a four-course 'happiness themed' menu at £220 per head, part of an all-round endorphin-releasing experience. Further details can be found on the website.

I attended the lunch as a guest of Krug and Murano.

Jacquesson Avize 1996: a Valentine's Day treat

Yesterday was Valentine's Day and a good excuse to open a decent bottle. We'd had a busy day and Nathan had some DIY to do when he got back from work. However, once the chores were done I rustled up a simple supper of smoked salmon, new potatoes and a delicately dressed salad – perfect for some special fizz.

I adore great Champagne and happily avoid overpriced and disappointing Grandes Marques in favour of smaller houses and individual growers. At our wedding we served Gimonnet Premier Cru Cuis bought directly from them and I'll never forget driving towards the Côte des Blancs and seeing the dramatic ridge that boasts so many great Champagne vineyards. I hadn't realised how similar it was to the Côte de Nuits in Burgundy – another thrilling sight for a wine lover. I'll also never forget how the Champagne flowed at our wedding and how we even had several bottles left over (bliss). I'd negotiated corkage per head (rather than per bottle) with our wedding venue, Middle Temple, so there was no need to hold back.

Our Valentine's bottle was also from the Côte des Blancs, but from the Grand Cru village of Avize. I'd been given this bottle as a 40th birthday present by my friend Martine Bounet who works for Fields Morris & Verdin, the importers of Jacquesson. Following her recommendations, I laid it down for a while before deciding to pop the cork yesterday. It had a deep golden yellow colour and an opulent nose of toasted brioche and caramelised tropical fruit as well and complex savoury notes. On the palate there were layers and layers of flavour, but all bone dry (extra-brut), despite the rich concentration. The finish went on and on, tangy, saline and mouthwatering. An amazing, substantial wine that stood up magnificently to the food – a superb match for the smoked salmon, cutting refreshingly through the oily richness. It may well have benefited from longer cellaring (given 1996's unusual combination of high acidity and ripe fruit), but it tasted beautifully harmonious last night. Next up will be a bottle of Krug 1988 – a wedding present that's been maturing nicely in our wine storage cabinet. Maybe for Nathan's 50th next year? We'll see...

Salty satisfaction

Today I'm having a dry day so, as I write this, I’m sipping some San Pellegrino just ahead of eating my dinner. Normally I’m happy to have a glass of filtered water from the Brita jug but, for me, the San Pell is a treat. I love its subtle salty tang – appetising, satisfying and a much better partner for food.

During the spell of sweltering hot weather earlier in the summer, what I craved more than anything at the end of a long sticky day was some chilled, saline dry sherry. Ideally Manzanilla, but fresh-as-a-daisy Fino was fine. It then struck me that it wasn’t just my love of salt that provoked this desire. I remembered how much I enjoyed drinking margaritas on holiday in Mexico several years ago – the combination of lime and salt is irresistible in the heat. Perhaps it’s a case of the body craving what it needs. Or perhaps it is just that weakness for salt.

In cooler weather I love sipping dry Amontillado sherry – nutty, mellow, but still with that instantly recognisable tangy, salty core. Of course, certain malt whiskies have a briny undercurrent. Talisker, with its peat smoke and iodine complexity, is a particular favourite.

Champagne can have a saline note, especially blanc de blancs; a recent treat was Ulysse Collin Extra Brut served as a seductively tingly apéritif. Safely tucked away for the future, we have some Chinon from Bernard Baudry with an enticing salty minerality that works deliciously with Cabernet Franc’s hard graphite edge. I cannot wait to see how it evolves. And I couldn’t possibly leave out Thalassitis (‘of the sea’) by Gaia, an arresting white wine from the volcanic island of Santorini. All profoundly and hauntingly satisfying.

More salty tales will follow, probably accompanied by something a little less virtuous in my glass...

(The image is of a driftwood tree on Harbour Island in the Bahamas where we spent some of our honeymoon.)