A walk around Banyuls sur Mer

On holiday in France in the summer we took some time out for a leisurely stroll around Banyuls. Banyuls sur Mer is overshadowed by its neighbour Collioure, but this makes it much more enjoyable to visit. Parking is less of a problem (or you can take the bus that runs along the coast during the season) and you don't have to negotiate gawping tourists wherever you go.

Banyuls has oodles of character and a charming sedate elegance. It has the gently buzzy vibe of a small beach resort, but you're always aware of the dramatic terraced vineyards and olive groves in the near distance. Here in deepest Catalan France, you never forget that Spain is only a few kilometres down the coast. However, strolling around the town is not as relaxing as it sounds as you'll see from the pictures – there are a lot of stairs involved. It's well worth it, though, as the views are so spectacular and there'll always be something delicious to sip afterwards.

Banyuls Sangria and the Côte Vermeille

I've been visiting Roussillon regularly for maybe 15 years now, but I'm amazed that this summer was my first taste of a certain, rather potent local speciality – Banyuls Sangria. The effect it has on you is rather like an expertly mixed gin and tonic. It takes hold of you and presents the world as a better place. When you're already in a rather lovely place, the effect is all the more powerful.

We were driving south along the coast to Banyuls and just before getting there we stopped at an attractive little bay, the Plage des Elmes, for lunch. The beach bar here (Le Sun) is known for its Banyuls Sangria, so the non-drivers settled in happily. You have to remember how close you are to Spain in this Catalan corner of France, so this interpretation the drink makes a lot of sense. Basically, it's local red wine (ideally Collioure) with Banyuls and (for good measure) brandy. It's sweetened to taste with sugar and flavoured with orange. Either you can slice oranges and leave them to macerate in the boozy red wine concoction or add some orange juice. Some recipes suggest doing this the day before and allowing it all to macerate. When you're ready to serve add some lemonade. To be honest, ours didn't taste diluted at all, so leave it out if you prefer!

It was a treat to enjoy this within sight of vines and in such a spectacular location. Banyuls is on the Côte Vermeille (the Vermillion Coast), the craggy, intricate stretch of coastline where the Pyrenees meet the Mediterranean. Maybe it was the sangria, but it was amazing experiencing the landscape and the remarkable rock formations so intimately.

The joys of self-catering in France 1: Roussillon

For the past couple of years our family holidays have combined the hot, sunny Mediterranean coast with the lush and watery expanses of the Loire Valley. Quite frankly, this is the best of both worlds. Self-catering might sound a bit dreary (and hard work) but, for food obsessives like me, it's the perfect choice of holiday as it allows you to be in control of precisely what you eat (and drink) and when. It also gives you the excuse to a lot of food shopping - bliss! Furthermore, with a toddler in tow, once she has gone to bed, we can have a relaxing evening on our own terms, in our own space - something that's much more difficult in a hotel.

Both these locations have so much to offer foodies. St Cyprien is in Roussillon (Catalan France), where the local specialities encompass local fish and seafood (notably anchovies and sardines), mountain honey and cheese (from the nearby Pyrenees), *abundant fruit and vegetables (peaches, apricots, cherries - the local town of Ceret is the 'cherry capital' of France and has an annual cherry festival). What's more, this corner of France is currently one of the most exciting wine regions in Europe. You might have heard of the fortified sweet wines of Banyuls and Rivesaltes and the deep reds of Collioure, but this hot, dry region produces reds, whites and rosés from a broad palette of grape varieties. For easy drinking we buy from our most local producer, Domaine de l'Esparrou near Canet who produces prize-winning rich, spicy Côtes du Roussillon and Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalans reds and rosés and a delicious fragrant Muscat Sec (all of which we are continuing to enjoy back in London from the wine boxes 'fontaines à vin' we brought home with us). For more serious drinking, favourites include Gauby (Calce) and Le Clos des Paulilles (Port Vendres). Gauby is possibly the region's most exciting producer - extraordinary, intense, complex reds and whites (Côtes du Roussillon Villages and Vin de Pays des Coteaux Catalans). Clos des Paulilles makes powerful red and white Collioure and fortifieds labelled as Banyuls. They also have an charming outdoor restaurant where you can be soothed by the gentle lapping of the waves while you eat: they are right on the coast. Since we visited in 2008, they have converted some outbuildings into rather stylish looking accommodation. Delightful place.

* Farm shops are handy for local seasonal produce and are often well sign-posted. We use the one in nearby Taxo (which also has an impressive wine selection) and St Cyprien has a comprehensive market on Tuesdays and Fridays.

The house we use in St Cyprien has an outdoor kitchen with a large built-in barbecue. This is the perfect environment for my some of my favourite Mediterrean dishes, grilled fish and seafood, perhaps with a drizzle of olive oil and some lemon juice (and glass after glass of local wine). In this instance, sardines - always unbelievably good value, bread, salad, chilled rosé and great company. If we fancy something after all that, we might nibble some Pyrenean sheep's cheese (Ossau Iraty or Brébis) with some cherries. Heaven!