Showing posts with label Logis de France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Logis de France. Show all posts

Monday, 24 March 2014

Travelling in France: Logis Hotels



I was very interested to read a large feature on Logis (de France) in The Daily Telegraph on Saturday. The organisation has undergone some changes, reducing the membership, sprucing up the website and now simply calling itself Logis Hotels as other countries are now covered. The way it works is that approved hotels pay a fee to join and be included in the annual guide.

Over the years we have routinely used Logis when we've needed an overnight stop and a meal to break a long journey. They are generally family run, independent hotels offering decent value for money, often located in characterful towns on the old routes nationales. In the main they are not the most glamorous or luxurious places, but they have a certain provincial charm. However, they can punch above their weight food-wise, albeit in a rather formal French way, but remain passionately regional. Confusingly, there is a broad range of Logis, but a new rating system should help travellers get a better idea of what to expect. Logis d'Exception is the most upscale.

Last summer we stayed at the Hostellerie des Clos in Chablis, a swankier example of a Logis (see pics above and read more about it here) and another smart example is Hostellerie de la Mère Hamard in Semblancay north of Tours. More typical is Le Dauphin in Salbris in the Sologne region south of Orleans. Another time we'll try out the Hotel Tatin in nearby Lamotte-Beuvron where allegedly the Tatin sisters (accidentally) created the famous apple tart. 

Logis membership can alter from year to year and one of my favourites is no longer listed – Au Coeur de Meaulne run by award-winning chef Patrick Rajkowski and his wife Karin on the edge of the Tronçais forest in the Auvergne. Moving their young family from Switzerland, the Rajkowskis acquired what was a run-down inn and have turned it around. It is now rated by Michelin as a Bib Hotel and is busy with plenty of repeat business. Never underestimate a Logis.

Tuesday, 30 June 2009

Au Coeur de Meaulne

I'm just back from two superb weeks in France. The weather was gloriously hot and sunny both on the Roussillon coast and in the Loire Valley.

To break our outward journey, we stayed overnight in a small town called Meaulne near the Tronçais forest in the Auvergne (source of some of the best oak used for wine barrels). This turned out to be a real treat.

Au Coeur de Meaulne is a member of the Logis de France group and is run by a Swiss couple, Karin and Patrick Rajkowski. He, clearly, is a very fine chef (as we were to discover) and she runs front of house helpfully and efficiently. Sitting outside on a shaded terrace, looking across their large garden towards the surrounding forests and listening to the birdsong, we selected the 28 Euro menu (mid-priced option). Firstly little appetisers of mini gougères (cheese puffs) and succulent olives were served and we went on to have a starter of smoked duck breast with a carrot cake made in the style of pain perdu. This came with papaya chutney and tiny balsamic onions and was a really interesting, delicious dish. The main course was grilled scallops with fillets of sea bream with a taboulé of quinoa and dried tomatoes. The scallops had been subtly scented with citronella ('citronelle') and the dish came with a drizzle of sauce made with local sparkling wine flavoured with a hint of saffron. Light and refreshing – delicious summery food. A very comprehensive, well selected cheese board followed – eight large portions including a deeply satisfying, complex, aged gruyère. This was such a generous course that we didn't then need dessert, particularly as some gorgeous petit fours were served with the coffee. The wine list covers a range of French classics: Bordeaux, Burgundy, along with some enticing bottles from around Sancerre (which is quite close by), but we keen to try some local wines from the Auvergne. We had glasses of St Pourcain rosé (good with the duck) and then St Pourcain white with the main course. Both were quite rustic and interesting to taste in a quirky way, but didn't really work with such sophisticated food. We played it safer with the cheeses and had some red Sancerre – refreshing and silky.

We had a good night's rest in our comfortable, well appointed room and were then equally impressed by the breakfast buffet selection, although it was restricted to a dining room, rather than being able to enjoy the lovely terrace again. We tucked into cheeses, cold meats, compotes made from local fruit, breads, pastries, home made (heart-shaped) cake, excellent coffee.

It's a bit more expensive than some Logis hotels (rooms approx 50–70 Euros; menus 20–40 Euros), but well worth considering if you need a restful overnight stop and great food near the A71 autoroute (between junctions 8 and 9). It's also very family friendly. Highly recommended.